Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Super Power

There are certain questions that are just inevitable. At a job interview: "So what are your areas of weakness/development?" (Is this a trick? How do you even answer that?). On a first date: "So what do you do for a living?" (read: are you employed and driven?) and "Have you ever been married? Do you have any kids?" (just kidding...actually not really). When people learn that I've been in the beauty industry for years and have developed all sorts of beauty products the first question asked without failure is "So do any of these anti-aging products really work?" Drumroll please..are you holding your breath for this million dollar question? And the answer is...YES! I know what you're thinking, yes there is a god!

We are all educated on the benefits of antioxidants. They fight free radicals, curtail oxidative damage and essentially prevent pre-mature aging due to environmental (ie. sun) and lifestyle (ie. stress) aggressors. However what you may not know is that the efficacy and benefits of these antioxidants are determined by their concentration and combination (if multiples are used). Bringing the "super" in antioxidant skin care treatment is Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Serum. As noted in their packaging and marketing communication this industry gold standard is made up of 15% pure vitamin C, 1% vitamin E and ferulic acid. What makes this product so ground breaking is not just the high concentration of damage controlling antioxidants, it is the skillful combination that is used. Independent clinical studies conducted at Duke University Medical Center show that by the these three ingredients double the level of photoprotection from 4-fold to 8-fold than each individually! Did you catch that? This tiny serum should not be confused for a small kid in the school yard. It protects your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays 8 times better than nothing at all (of course you still must wear sunscreen!). Hmmm I wonder how many premature wrinkles that translates to especially since 80% of wrinkles are caused by sun damage. Unmatched within the marketplace this revolutionary antioxidant combination increases collagen synthesis, neutralizes free radicals and brightens skin. The best part? It cannot be washed or rubbed off so you get continuous, synergistic protection. Skinceuticals is responsible for the serum trend you see in the marketplace but with like all copycats only the original is the real mccoy. Umm where's the dotted line so I can sign up for a life-long supply?

Usage tip: After cleansing and toning, apply 6-8 drops onto the palm of your hand and be sure to apply all over your face, neck and decollete. Wait 3-4 minutes before layering your SPF lotion during the day or night cream.

The result: The answer to the eternal question...yes there is a skin care product that really works!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Time for Toning

I started this blog because I realized how confusing and difficult it has become to navigate the beauty aisles and counters. As a consumer you're bombarded by marketing messages, pushy sales clerks and pitch-happy media. Who can really decipher between all these recommendations? What's real, what's not? What should you be buying? What should you splurge on? These are valid questions that we ask ourselves daily. So this week's topic is going to skincare basics 101. We will cover what I consider to be the cornerstones of an efficacious, fool-proof AM and PM beaute regimen.

It's funny how we have these preconceived notions of how things should be. I remember as a teenager always thinking that turning 16 would mean independence and 25 would ring in wisdom and all the answers to the big questions. The interesting thing about life is it never goes as planned and those expectations? Well maybe it's better to just keep an open mind. Which brings me to the beaute presumptions we all experience. I always thought that breakouts and acne were reserved for my teenage years. Turns out not so much, and apparently this nagging problem plagues almost half of all adults! We all know the importance of cleaning our face twice daily but do you also use a toner? Most people think cleansers are able to remove all dirt, makeup and residue. I have not really found this to be the case. While cleansers are thorough, I find that toners are able to clean up any remaining traces of these dulling, aging and breakout-causing culprits. To be clear not all toners are designed for anti-breakout action. There are plenty of mild toners that remove trace impurities while gently hydrating skin and prepping it for treatment products. Since I am a proud member of the 50% pimple-prone adult population I thought I would share my favorite toner that helps keep breakouts at bay.
Breakouts are caused by blocked pores. There's a multitude of aggressors that can cause this blockage like thick, non-absorbant products, body's naturally produced oil/sebum and even stress. Cleansers wash away the bulk of these things but often that's not enough to ensure pristine skin. I rely on Clean & Clear Acne Clearing Astringent to keep my pores clean and clear! One of my favorite beaute ingredients is BHA's (beta hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid. This plant derived ingredient helps exfoliate dead skin cells to prevent pores from clogging and allowing for new cell growth. While the Clean & Clear toner is formulated with this impurity fighting agent it is mild leaving behind a much needed moisture balance to keep skin soft. Many anti-bacterial toners can be quite aggressive not only because of the salicyclic acid but because of the high alcohol content. Clean & Clear does not treat skin abrasively and will not leave your skin tight or uncomfortable. Rather you can bask in cleaner, breakout free skin. This product treats a multitude of pimple related conditions from "once in a blue moon" breakouts to daily acne so you can use it daily or just when you experience a flare up.

Usage tip: Use both morning and at night directly following your cleanser. Apply a nickel size amount to a cotton pad.

The result: Acne or in-frequent breakouts are banished to your adolescent "spin the bottle" kissing days!

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Twinkle in Your Eye

Besides assessing fellow passenger's complexion on the subway and making mental notes of what they could do improve their skin, I also like to watch people and see how a circumstance/environment can bring out an unexpected extra something to their look. The girl at the gym has the perfect rosy hued glow after running on the treadmill for 20 minutes. That color, in that exact location gives her a healthy radiance (mental note: match blush to the color cheeks have after working out and remember where to place it). Running late for work as she's trying to finish her breakfast and drop the kids off at daycare, the mother haphazardly throws her hair up in a ponytail with loose pieces lingering to frame the face (mental note: finger hair up into a ponytail making sure to leave some strands behind for a sexier, innocent look).

But my absolute favorite is looking at someone in a darker restaurant or lounge. The candlelight from the candle expertly placed on the table in front of them shines on the eyelid to give this alluring, inner radiance. You know that saying "the twinkle in your eye?" That's exactly what I'm talking about, it draws you in seductively and leaves you hanging on for more. Wow my body temperature went up just saying that! Anyway, wouldn't it be great if we lived in a world that was a bit darker and someone could walk in front of us with a candle so we could always have that allure? Laughable and unimaginable yes, recreatable abso-freakin-lutely!

Step 1: On clean eye lids first apply your eye cream (yes this is important, hydrated skin looks plumper) followed by an eye primer. (Amber how proud of me are you right now? I did a hyperlink! Pathetically sad that I get excited about something so simple!)
Step 2: Apply your all over lid and crease shadow as normal.
Step 3: Before applying eye liner but after using all the eye shadow you desire, take the small shading eye brush and dip the oval tip into the desired Make Up For Ever Star Powder. Remember to chose a lighter, highlighting color. One of my favorites is Pearl Gold which is versatile and complimentary to any eye palette. Be sure to tap the brush to remove any excess powder before applying.
Step 4 (AND THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE): Just above where the eye liner would be, apply the powder along the length of your eye pupil. Meaning, draw in invisible line of where you pupil starts and ends on the upper eye lid. That's the area you want to apply the powder. You can work it a little up towards the crease as well so that when your gaze is straight ahead, the distance from the upper lid to the eye crease is highlighted with the powder. Don't apply it too far up in the eye lid as that will be an over kill and end up transferring the powder into the crease. Think a delicate line. See picture above as well for further clarification.
Step 5: Apply your eye liner (I love using an eyeliner gel with an angled brow brush).
Step 6: Curl lashes and apply mascara.
Step 7: Apply concealer to your lower lid.

Usage tip: For added staying power, dip the small shading brush in water before picking up the Starlight powder. This helps the powder bind to the lid a bit more.

The result: If you don't know go back and reread the first paragraph or look at the finale picture above!

Monday, October 12, 2009

Smack That

So I know I promised another tutorial eye makeup post but I had an urgent request from 3 beaute 101 readers and I figured if they were all asking the same question perhaps you were too (just not out loud!). Yes fall has officially arrived! I started "winterizing" my closet and taking out the scarves to make my daily commute a bit warmer and perhaps more interesting (didn't you see the movie Shopaholic? That green scarf made her!). And while it's fun to rediscover your sweaters, this seasonal swap is not unique to just your clothes...you have to adjust your beauty regimen (and I mean the full shibang). We will cover this category by category, product by product in a lot of upcoming posts but probably one of the first areas you are noticing needing a bit more tlc is your lips.

The skin around the lip area is one of the most delicate and thin, making it susceptible to any external aggressors like sun, colder temperatures and the wind. The dry almost arctic (at times) weather we will experience from now till, well let's see umm April/May if we are lucky, strips your porcelain-like lips of any moisture. With each windy gust the lips moisture barrier (think of it as a wall keeping the water in) gets disrupted and over time your lips lose any ability to stay conditioned. That tight, almost needle-prick feeling your lips feel when the eastern winds are blowing so hard you feel it in your bones (ugh I'm really not excited about the winter!) is their way of saying HELP! Of course any old chapstick won't do for us beaute lovers. We need more perhaps a little color so we don't feel completely bare maybe a little UV protection...you know we want it all. So I have been test driving some lip balms and I have finally found one that may just be winter-proof.

MAC Tinted Lip Conditioners are just like a little pot of gold. The first time I applied it my lips just went "ahhh!" Formulated with the best hydrating ingredients earthly possible including shea butter, avocado, sweet almond and wheat germ oil, this emollient balm coats the lip with essential moisture helping restore the humectants needed to make lips supple and soft again. What's amazing is hours after you've applied it and numerous cups of tea later, you can still feel it like a protective glove keeping your lips safe. Now as I told you before I'm not a huge daytime lipstick wearer so I need my lip balm to also give a touch of color. Available in six versatile colors from pink to coral to bronze beige, MAC has got you covered so that your lips don't look drab in the gray weather. As if that's not enough they even go a step beyond. The lip conditioner also gives your lips a nice juicy sheen you typically only experience in their lip glosses (but no stickiness). So let's see so far you have hydration, color and shine? Oh wait, I forgot to mention the SPF 15 to protect lips from long-term damage. Well folks your lips should be safe this winter, so just go ahead and find a worthy kissing partner!

Usage tip: MAC also has Suntints but I didn't find it to be nourishing enough for weather-battered lips, it's a product more suitable to warmer conditions. For optimal results apply every 2 hours or as needed. Don't lick your lips! It only depletes the moisture from lips. The lip conditioners come in pots so if you're germaphobic like I've become with all the flu warnings invest in a travel lip brush. Added bonus? A more professional, controlled application.

The result: Color-infused, moisture enriched succulent lips!

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Starlight Starbright

Isn't it funny how some of the best things in life are found in the most innocent and naive ways? Those are the things you grow to treasure and never take for granted. Well beaute must have always been in my genes and blood because at the age of 12 or 13, during a school sponsored field trip to the big nyc (funny fate should have it that years later I would make this remarkable city my home away from home), I stumbled upon a Sephora. What can I say I was in pure heaven. To the point that I returned the next 3 days we were there spending every nano-second I could until my mom had enough and other classmates became a bit resentful that they weren't seeing the Statue of Liberty. Didn't they understand that I had arrived in my mecca?! Well during this fateful trip I discovered one of my most treasured (remember I don't use that word lightly-only if I truly adore and love something) brands, Make Up For Ever, and purchased their Star Powder. That baby and I were inseparable. It was applied everywhere! Interestingly I still have that original jar.

I know I promised another makeup demo post but our next look will be focusing on a captivating inner glow which is mainly accomplished by this amazing product. Star Powder is the perfect mix between shimmer, highlight and just pure brilliance. A little goes a long way with this superfine powder and it's so versatile you can use it as you wish (imagine that!). In the mood for some light reflecting contouring? Meet Star Powder. Need a little radiance to brighten dull skin? Star Powder to the rescue! Want to highlight your perfect nose? Star Powder is your man (just don't umm snort it...it's a joke, laugh!). Anyway you get my drift, right? This silky powder provides the perfecting finishing touch to seal the deal. My favorite shades include Pearl Gold, Copper and Iridescent Neutral Beige. Go to your nearest Sephora, play and discover for yourself!

Usage tip: For extra staying power dampen your brush before application. The pigment can be dense so always tap your brush before applying and remember you can always apply more.

The result: Radiant, glowing star power for your best look!

Monday, October 5, 2009

The Eyes Have It!

Step 5:
I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Back in the good ole days of being a student (when time was not an endangered species), I would tear out my favorite makeup looks from magazines and then try to replicate them at home. A couple of things I found. One: the step by step direction provided were never accurate. There's always a key step they managed to leave out. Two: through this trial and error process your artistic imagination may actually lead you to a better look or a signature technique. So today we are going to build from the last two posts and learn one of my all time favorite eye makeup techniques. As you all know I'm someone who needs a serious amount of sleep to get that rested, healthy look. The reality? That rarely happens! Even if I do manage to get into bed at a reasonable hour and am so exhausted I can barely keep my eyes open, my brain somehow manages to keep me wide awake running through my "to do" list for the next day or over-analyzing problems. Needless to say there are days I wake up a bit tired looking. So I rely on this technique to not only give me that wide-awake look but to also highlight my eyes when I'm going for a little mystery.

Beaute Guru's Secret 6 Step Technique for the "8hrs of sleep + I draw you in with my eyes" look:
1. Apply your base and crease eye makeup as usual.
2. Apply your desired eyeliner, mascara and concealer.
3. Chose an appropriate light-reflecting, shimmery eye shadow. This is really dependent on your skin tone and the contrast you're looking for. I have an olive complexion so I often stick with a shimmery light pink such as MAC's Sweetlust. My fairer beaute lovers can use a whiter shade.
4. Dip the tip/head of the blending brush into the shadow and tap off any excess.
5. Start at the inner corner of the upper eye lid and brush the shimmering powder in a downward motion following the shape of the eye's inner V. Please see picture above.
6. Blend the highlighting shadow above and below lashes. I particular like working the color along the lower lash line about 3/4 in or to where your pupil starts. It helps exaggerate that brightening look.

Usage tip: My mantra is you can always apply more so start light and build up on the shimmer depending on how tired you look or to achieve the desired radiance. Play around with different highlighting colors. For night time a shimmering gold or peach tone may be quite alluring!

The result: Bright, well rested eyes with a devilish look!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Tool Time, Part 2

Like all little girls I learned at a very young age that all the best things come in small packages....a little blue box with your first piece of significant jewelry, my mom's encouraging love notes in my lunch box, a matchstick box holding keys to my first car. You get the hint. So naturally I have adapted this life lesson to all other aspects of my life. Best purse for a night out? A clutch of course! Best organizer/planner? My blackberry. The one thing that gives me comfort at night when I'm all by myself? My childhood small stuffed animal Coco. And when it comes to the art of makeup I sought out that small tool that would help give that added umph.

The small shading eye brush is one of the most versatile tools in your makeup arsenal. Because of it's flat bristles you can control the application with micro precision for unparralled effects. The tapered oval tip allows makes it uber multi-tasking so that it can be used in so many different ways. We are going to be covering all the eye enhancing tricks this small brush does in the next post but I thought I would give you a proper introduction first. Different brands call this brush different things so, as always, I have included a picture for you. But sticking with our theme the smaller the better. I say this because we want to use this brush for enhancing effects rather than all over application. Aren't you excited for the next post?

Usage tip: Clean your brush once a month with warm water and gentle soap (I like Johnson & Johnson baby shampoo) to maintain its condition.

The result: Small tool for eye popping makeup!