Tool Time, Part 1

The next few entries go out to my Beaute 101 readers who enjoyed the "how to wear red lipstick" article from last time and have asked for more "how to"/tutorial pieces. On a side note to my brilliantly diligent friend Amber: I'm still working on how to write html coding that will link mentions of previous topics directly to that post. If any of my readers know how to do this please help the Beaute Guru. Ok back to the matter at hand. Here's a quick peek at what's coming up. Today and Friday we will focus on the tools you need for next week's eye makeup demos showing you how to create this season's smoldering looks. So stay posted!

As a beaute lover I'm not only obsessed over the products I use but also about the tools that support them making their efficacy so spectacular. Think about it. Where would we be without our tools? Imagine for a second a land with no blackberrys or IPhones...(gasp!) mon dieu as the French would say! We would have to actually pay attention to our surroundings forcing us to walk around actually making eye contact with that cutie across the street instead of click, click, click bbm'ing our friend. Think about it. You could be missing the chance to meet your one and only Romeo all because you're permanently glued to your mobile phone!

To create that perfect eye look that will make the guy across the street fall head over heels in love (just kidding...not really, a girl can always dream!) I rely on a tapered blending brush. Whether it's natural and light or smoky and sexy this brush gives you the perfect control to apply the contouring and defining eye shadow to the crease. Seriously every eye look needs some sort of high/low contrast to give your eyes depth instead of a monochromatic washed out look. I know that the naturalite, barely there makeup lovers may be skeptical...trust me! I don't lie and I search high and low for the very best for you. This brush will take your makeup application to the next level. The tapered brush allows for maximum control ensuring that you deposit the color right in the crease. Now flawless makeup is all about blending. Thanks to the dome-shaped bristles you can really work the eye shadow into the curves and cervices of the crease (yes I just stole that line from a Ludacris song!) so that you get a continuous, accurate coverage. Now most makeup brands have this brush so depending on your budget you can splurge and buy the Rolls Royce version with boar hair or purchase an equally effective version like the one from MAC at $28 (which I use!). Whatever you do invest in one...NOW!

Usage tip: Clean your brush once a month with warm water and gentle soap (I like Johnson & Johnson baby shampoo) to maintain its condition. Remember to always tap your brush after dipping it into the shadow to remove excess powder and use brush in small circular motions instead of the traditional sweeping technique.

The result: Professional eye makeup right from your very own bathroom!

Regal Red, Here for Fall

As you know there's something about fall that makes me giddy like a school girl. And while the return of college football and apple pies gives much to get excited about, what really energizes me is the shift from summer makeup to fall colors. The breezy air ushers in a new, fresh look. Out go the pale lipsticks and bronzer and in comes the smoky eyes and bold lips. One of the biggest fall makeup trends is seductive, juicy red lips...yum! Just take a look at the fall campaigns from the top houses. D&G, Dior, Valentino, YSL, Cavalli, Moschino, Lavin and Ferragamo all feature gorgeous red smackers in their full glory. They range from bright and bold to wine stained and dark. Now I know what you're thinking- it looks great in the magazines but there's no way I can pull that off. Not so! This is a look that is stunning on all, you just need the right shade.

So I spent my Saturday playing around the makeup counters to find the right colors and learn the right techniques for my dear readers. Just imagine this: me in my yoga clothes totting around my gym bag, no makeup with the exception of my bold red lips at 3pm picking up toilet paper at the drug store! Quite a sight, let me tell you! So after that spectacle I'm here to dish on all the tips you need. First off, ANYONE can wear red lips, you just need to find the right shade. There's two factors you must consider: hair color and skin tone. True reds or reds with blue undertones look best on blondes while my fellow brunettes should stick with corals or also true reds. Fortunately for redheads they can do either coral or blue. Fairer ladies with pink undertones look best with blue-reds like MAC's Ruby Woo while olive complexions like me are best complimented by orangey reds (color recommendation below). It may take some trial and error at the makeup counter but trust me when you find the right color you just know. Everything seems brighter.

The key to making the look wearable is using lip liner which will help prevent against bleeding and a clown-like look. Some people use a neutral liner to outline the lips, I prefer in this case to use a red pencil. It helps define the lips and gives an extra punch. After sometime exploring I found my red color...MAC's Russian Red. Sophisticated yet vibrant this will be my number one accessory for fall. Of course like all girls I like options so as you can see from the pictures above, the lipstick can be a bright, true red when paired with MAC's Brick lip pencil (bottom picture) or the color can be darkened for a Merlot look with the Burgundy lip pencil (top picture). Just outline the lips with the pencil first and then apply lipstick. Make sure to gently smack or rub your lips together to help blend the pencil and lipstick or for longer wear you can color the entire lip area with the pencil first.

Usage tip: My favorite part of this look? The rest of your makeup should be kept as simple and natural as possible. A hint of blush, nude eyes and mascara. How fabulous is that? No need to waste time doing the smoky eye. This look is great for a polished look on the go. Also don't forget the lip pencil trick above and use the YSL Touche Eclat highlighter on the outer lip area to help curtail bleeding and keep lips flawless.

The result: Sophisticated yet seductive, ladylike yet sexy, red timeless lips!

Layer It On

It’s amazing how we are programmed to make excuses for not wanting to do things despite knowing that it is in our best interest. Remember when you were kid and the back and forth battles you had with your parents about eating your veggies? Whether you were skillfully arguing that your little tummy had no more for more food or you would simply hide them in your napkin, at the end of the day there was no way of convincing you to eat it. As an adult you now know that these fresh veggies are loaded with vitamins, antioxidants and nutrition to keep your body and organs strong and healthy. It’s funny how this same situation plays out for sunscreen. I was talking to a friend of mine the other day who insisted that she must wear foundation despite her flawless skin (I hope she’s liking the Giorgio Armani Luminous Foundation!) but could not even dream of layering it over a SPF lotion despite knowing how beneficial it may be for her skin’s health in the long-term. Her reasons of course were quite numerous- sunscreen lotions are too greasy, it will cause me to breakout, I’m in the office all day so I don’t need. You get the idea. Ladies and gents here are the sneaky places UV rays can find you:

1. Driving the car/taking the bus (no the glass is not a UV blocker!)
2. Sitting by a window (same reasoning as above)
3. Walking on the streets (even for 10min)
4. Sitting under a tree, umbrella, etc (yes they provide some protection but it’s not foolproof)

Think about the number of minutes per day your vulnerable skin is left defenseless to the sun. Did you know that 90% of all wrinkles is caused by sun damage? That’s damage that cannot be undone. Proper protection is the key!

Meet Olay Complete SPF 30 Defense Daily UV Moisturizer. This light-weight, rapidly absorbing lotion is a dual purpose hydrating your skin (which you should be doing every am and pm!) while shielding against harmful UV rays. The number one thing I love about this product and cannot stress enough, especially for those foundation wearers who are fearful of layering products, is that this formula is practically weightless. You apply it and whoosh it absorbs immediately, leaving no greasy residue, no stickiness, nada. Instead it leaves a soft, almost powdery after feel. And just to up the ante this lotion is expertly formulated with antioxidant-rich Vitamin E and B to help fight the free radical damage. At $11.99 you can’t beat that!

Usage tip: Back to our usage basics, covered on August 28th, apply a nickel size amount and don’t forget to apply on your neck and decolette area (the vulnerable, unmaskable areas that are always tell tale signs of aging). Wait at least a minute or two to allow for proper absorption before applying foundation

The result: Chiffon sheer UV protection for all day wear.

Part 2

The beauty of beauty (kinda catchy, huh?) is that we can individually have our own preferences, our own routine that is easily supported by the plethora of beauty products out there. While some of us prefer wearing a tinted spf moisturizer like the DDF Sun Protection Enhancing lotion others may actually enjoy the coverage provided by a foundation. Hey, you say tomato I say tomahto...to each her/his own and I'm just here to support you! For my foundation users out there, whether you wear it daily or just on special occasions, there's a certain art to getting that flawless coverage where people are just left guessing if you naturally have that immaculate complexion or is it enhanced?! You see one of my biggest pet peeves is when you can literally see the layers or better yet the kabuki-like masks some foundations leave. In fact on the subways (remember my last blog entry?) I love to guess who's really wearing foundation! It screams from miles away- "this is not real! Can you count the cake-like layers?" There's no absolute reason anyone should be wearing foundation like this anymore, with the advancement of beauty technology that's a thing of the past.

So I proudly introduce to you Giorgio Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Foundation, a revolution in the art of foundation. Imagine flawless, radiant skin with that glow people can't quite place....all courtesy of Armani Beauty. Hydrating yet weightless, this silky fluid glides onto skin for a finish only once possible through airbrush machines. Perfect for all skin types, including oily skin, this oil-free foundation provides all-day buildable coverage that can be customized to meet your needs, ranging from ultra sheer to moderate coverage. Skin is left more radiant and glowing for a dewy, healthy look. Although a bit pricey at $58 per bottle, this is one product worth the splurge! I'm all about cutting corners but there are some hallmark pieces that are pivotal to the rest of your regimen, like foundations which serve as the base to everything, so invest wisely in your face. And just think it gives you the same result as the airbrush machines that the celebs and tv stars use at the fraction of the price!

Usage tip: Fact- must people don't need foundation all over! Instead apply to your t-zone area to even out skin tone and cover any imperfections. Don't be afraid to use your clean hands to help blend...there's nothing worse than a foundation line!

The result: Flawless, radiant skin without the foundation telltale signs...your secret is safe with me!

Subway Skin Analysis

True story: one of my favorite games to play in the subway when I'm forced to reduce my size by half so I can avoid touching the nasty, sweaty guy next to me in an over packed, rush hour commute is to analyze faces/skin of my fellow passengers (weird I know but I like to think of it as passion for my work). What I mean by that is I like to assess how these subway riders can enhance their natural features for a more youthful, radiant version of themselves. In some extreme cases it means paying a visit to derms office for injectables (hey I don't judge!), but more often than not my diagnosis consists of better protective and corrective skincare. And out of these treatment products the one "star"/absolute must-have is a sunscreen. I know, I know you have heard it a million times...well here's a million and one time! The number one cause of premature aging is sun exposure. I have seen people in their early 20's with full on crow's feet because they never thought sunscreen was necessary day to day, rather they viewed it as seasonal product to be applied in the summer beach months. Whether your only time seeing daylight is walking/driving to work or you spend all day outside running around after the kids you absolutely must use a sunscreen. Besides blocking damaging UV rays that wreck havoc on skin, sunscreens (especially those with antioxidants) have been shown to help repair damaged DNA while you are indoors. Meaning when they are not fighting off the sun, they are working to prevent collagen and elastin breakdown. Have I got your attention yet?! I thought so...

So in lieu of the fall/winter months and as requested by my dear readers, I have decided to do a 3 part blog series that covers base products used before makeup application. Traditionally called foundations this category has evolved to include other product forms. We begin the series with my favorite "go to," all-in-one product. Then on Thursday we will review the top foundation in the marketplace, but unfortunately this product does not contain any UV protection so on Sunday we will be discussing the perfect SPF moisturizer that can be layered with any foundation. Stay tuned!

Let us begin with my all-time, coveted (remember I only use this word when I mean it!) base product- the DDF Enhancing Sun Protection lotion SPF 30. There are a couple of things that just make me love this product....let me count the ways.

1. Formulated with self-adjusting, "smart" color spheres this lotion will even out and enhance your natural skin tone to give you that right amount of sheer coverage. How great is that? Self-correcting pigments that adjust to your unique color!

2. I always scrutinize the UV filters in products because I think that it's highway robbery if your sunscreen does not provide broadspectrum UV protection, meaning the product will block both UVB (the burning) and UVA (the aging) rays. UVA filters are a relatively newer concept as they are not currently regulated by the FDA. Here's the little loophole you may have not known of: the spf factor printed on your bottle (ie. spf 15, 30, etc) designates the protection against UVB rays only! So not all products are formulated to protect you against aging UVA rays. Right on point, the DDF Enhancing Sun Protection lotion is formulated with two physical sunscreen blockers- titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These filters are oldies but goodies as they provide some of the most complete coverage against both types of rays.

3. Also included is DDF's proprietary Redox antioxidant complex that not only enhances the sun protection but works over time to fight free radical damage.

4. And one of the most important points for all us, at the end of the day we care about how this product makes us look immediately, this lotion is super light-weight absorbing immediately, leaving no shine or residue. Bask in just moisturized, supple, radiant skin!

Usage tip: Apply a nickel to a dime size amount evenly all over the face and neck (remember the proper product amount we talked about in the Aug 28th post?). For an added glow I like to mix the JK Jemma Kidd Mannequin Skin Complexion Enhancer (discussed in the Aug 8th post) with the lotion. In this case I mix a nickel size amount of the DDF lotion and a dime size amount of the Mannequin Skin in the palm of my hand and then apply.

The result: Perfectly protected, even skin...I guess I won't be analyzing your skin in the subway!

4" Stilettos Without Tears!

There's something about fall that is just so exciting. Perhaps it's the fresh, crisp air or the back to school beginning that helps set a new tone. But for me early September always equals New York Fashion Week. The legendary bi-yearly occasion is chalk full of shows, parties and random events and this year was no exception.! Thursday night I had the great fortune of attending the Rosa Cha show and then (like all New Yorkers) I made a mad dash to experience the one of a kind Vogue's Night Out Event. My partner in crime and I managed to hit 5 neighborhoods and by the end of the 5 hrs were completely exhausted! But regardless of how tired we were I think all that running around was more stressful on our poor, helpless feet. After all I think most doctor's would agree that our delicate feet are not designed to be in 4" plus heels. Then last night as I was running to the Beauty Blogger Fashion Week event I threw on a new pair of beautiful silver python 4" platform pumps without really thinking. Well it took me only 20 steps till I realized my poor feet were in dire trouble. So much trouble that a very sweet boy came up on the street and asked me if I was ok. From the very perilous way I was walking he was afraid that I hurt me leg! So sweet and thoughtful! But my big mistake was a wearing high heels after Thursday night's activities (after all I'm 5'10" so I don't desperately need the added height and my poor feet do need a day off to recover) and not applying the Bandaid Friction Block Stick.

As my PR guru cousin who is permanently in heels and I can attest to is that this simplistic stick provides the necessary cushion to protect feet's delicate skin from the barbaric shoes we like to wear. The mess-free stick glides easily onto skin to form an invisible protective barrier that prevents skin from the constant rubbing that eventually leads to blister formation. With it's lubricating formula, the Friction Block Stick keeps your feet intact and blister-free. As I hobbled home last night, practically crying and willing my apartment to be closer, I swore to myself to never leave home without the stick regardless of how late I'm running. And the best part is the stick is so small you can easily throw it your bag and use it on to go or for touch-ups as needed.

Usage tip: Apply the stick to the areas most prone to blisters- the back of the ankle, the side of the pinkie toe and all along the side of the big toes down to the bone that will hopefully never turn into a bunion! Allow the product to absorb before wearing shoes. Reapply as needed.

The results: Blister-free, pain-free feet that can last throughout the night without any tears! Take that 4" stilettos!

Strong as an Ox Polished Hair

What a blast was Vogue's Fashion Night Out! It was Halloween meets New Years Eve (quite insane if you get my drift). At one of the retailers (a high end jeweler catering to the hip hop & r&d set) I had a chance to catch up with a dear friend who just got a new job (congratulations!). Naturally our conversation turned to beauty and we started to talk about one of my fool-proof, life-saving (make that hair saving) products. Now when it comes to beauty, products are often seasonal- in the summer you need a lighter moisturizer, deeper cleansing, etc. In the winter you skin needs a bit more lovin' so you swap to richer, nourishing products. As you know from an earlier blog entry I refuse to take a blow drier to my hair in the summer months. But as the temperature cools down I trade my naturally tousled look for something more coiffed and polished...and out comes the hair drier. Repeated exposure to heat tools eventually damages hair causing that crunchy feeling (no that is not normal, it's your hair's way of saying "hasta la vista, baby") and breakage. For those of us either trying to grow out our hair or like healthy looking hair (read: the entire of population), we are caught in a bind: ditch the heat tools and look like a hot mess or use the tools and reek havoc on your tresses. Luckily this next product recommendation saves you from having to chose between these two ill fates.

Kerastase Ciment Thermique or as I like to call it "liquid gold" is a heat-activated milk that rebuilds hair's inner structure from the cortex (hair's inner layer/core) out. This intercellular fortification strengthens hair preventing against breakage and split ends. For instant gratification, it is also formulated with a Vita-Topseal complex that forms a 3D protective coating around strands to provide an added reinforcement to the cuticles (hair's top layer) giving an instant softness (no more crunchy feel!) and manageability. And here's the best part...this product does not weigh the hair down! I'm quite sensitive to leave-in products as they typically make my hair flat and greasy in no time. This product leaves zero sign that it was ever even applied keeping your hair naturally bouncy and vibrant. Listen, hair is not designed to be repeatedly exposed to harsh, high temperatures so you absolutely must protect it with a heat activated product to protect it's integrity and structure. Ciment Thermique makes it easy - strong as an oxe hair perfectly styled.

Usage tip: When hair's wet apply a nickel size amount from mid-length to ends (where hair is most damaged) making sure to work it into your strands. Style as usual.

The result: Your hair at it's very best!

3-in-1 For Your Lips

Well beaute lovers I'm back (and as the proverbial saying goes "better than ever") after a very restful visit home and the unique pleasure of witnessing/participating in a very dear friend's wedding. Besides the holiday and wedding excitement, I was really looking forward to finally test driving the new Laura Mercier Hydra Tint lip product. I learned about this lip treatment from my mom (yes, mothers really do know best!) when I was in a desperate state of panic trying to replace my discontinued Prada tinted lip balm. Now my dear beaute aficionado I'm going to say something you will rarely hear me say and in the rare occasions I do use it you will know that this product is the holy grail, the big kahuna, the full monty, the big cheese (you get the picture) of the beauty. So here it goes...I absolutely coveted the Prada lip balm. I owned it in every color and stockpiled it till my drawers were full, so you can imagine my total and utter angst when I learned that my "it" product was disco'd (no it didn't go dancing it was discontinued!). When I researched the Laura Mercier Hydra Tint and realized that on paper it sounded like everything I was desperately asking the beaute gods for I thought to myself..."This is too good to be true! Hmm perhaps I should have wished to win the Mega Million instead!"

None the richer (I didn't win the $200 million) I took this gift from the beaute gods, ordered the lip balm in Mocha tint and practically tore open the Sephora package when it arrived. The Hydra Tints are multi-purpose, "do it all" product for the lips. Imagine lipstick color + lip balm conditioning + spf protection all rolled up into one. They moisturize the lips with conditioning shea butter, grape seed oil and soya oil while fighting damage caused by external aggressors with antioxidant powerhouses green tea extract and vitamin E. They further protect the very delicate and susceptible lip area with a broadspectrum sunscreen helping shield against both damaging UVA and UVB rays. Now Laura Mercier claims that these lip balms freshen the breath with mint and orange (I didn't really find that to be the case, instead these two ingredients provided a nice tingling/cooling sensorial effect) and provide all day suppleness with their exclusive lip complex which I guess from the ingredient list to be no more than safflower seed oil, aloe extract and evening primrose oil. Nice additions but nothing groundbreaking. Now I must tell you that during the day I'm not much of a lipstick wearer. I find lipsticks to be a bit drying and one-dimensional (I need my spf!) so I'm very critical on finding the perfect replacement to my fool-proof Prada tinted lip balms. My criteria for a great daily lip product is (in order of importance): great color, hydration, sun protection & long lasting. On points 1 and 3 I think the Laura Mercier did a great job. The Hydra Tints are available in 8 colors ranging from nude to pink to bronze, ensuring there is a color to meet your needs and my mind was put at ease with the UV filters. However given my drier complexion I need something that is not only more moisturizing but that provides continuous hydration throughout the day. I'm not convinced this product really can do that but in the meantime as I continue my quest for "the one" I consider myself lucky to have this stand-in. Do you have a great lip product that meets all the requisites I'm seeking? If so let me know! I want to hear from you!

Usage tip: The Hydra Tints do not have a pointed tip like lip sticks that help control the application, rather they have a more traditional flat head seen in lip balms. This makes it a bit tricky to keep the product within the lip lines so apply in front of a mirror.

The result: Pleasing color, protected lips and soothing moisture! Prada lip balms I'm no longer crying over you!

DIY Spa Worthy Mani Pedi

My high school best friend is getting hitched this weekend and I'm lucky enough to be one of her bridesmaids! Very exciting but a lot of beauty prep work needs to be done leading right up till the moment she says her "I do's" and even continuing through the reception and late night celebration. Of course this week, like most, has been wacko crazy with work demands leaving very little time to get ready. So I find myself 12 hrs before my flight needing a mani/pedi. And not just any mani/pedi but a truly incredible one (read: lasts for awhile, polish is on the nails, fingers and toes radiate)! Easy I think, I will call my favorite nail technician, Sonia, at the neighborhood salon and get one of her fabulous, chip-free, 2 week lasting mani/pedis while I sit back, relax and catch up on my celebrity gossip. Well of course that would just be too convenient...apparently Thursday's are Sonia's day off! In a great panic I try to figure out what to do. I need to get my nails done but have never had much luck with the other nail techs or salons, so I figure I will do it myself. After all I have only watched Sonia do it a million times and if she can do it so can I (there's the competitve edge in me!). Well fellow beauty lovers I'm thrilled to report that my makeshift, homestyle nail salon has resulted in a pretty unbelievable DIY mani/pedi. Listen, in a blind survey I don't think I would be able to tell the difference between what I did and Sonia's work! So I'm compelled to share my technique with you!

1. Shape the nails. Be sure to file in one direction only to avoid causing micro tears that could eventually catch onto something and lead to breakage.

2. Buff nails to remove any ridges.

3. Soak nails in a lukewarm water bath infused with some aromatic bath salts (I like lavender!).

4. Gently push back cuticles but don't cut them, this only causes the cuticle to grow back thicker.

5. Pedi only: with a pumice stone and body polish exfoliate the soles of the feet concentrating on callused areas. Rinse.

6. Clean the nail surface again with nail polish remover. This step is the most important! It removes any remaining moisture, oil or residue allowing the polish to directly bind to the nail surface.

7. Apply OPI Base Coat. I love this product so much I take it with me to nail salon. As in step 6, the key to a long lasting mani/pedi is the foundation. This base coat not only helps create a smooth surface for the polish but also creates a great barrier protecting nails from the yellowing effect. Sonia comments on this during the winters when I'm permanently wearing the darker polishes. She is amazed that my nails don't turn yellow!

8. Apply a thin coat of your desired nail polish making sure to cover the edges and tips of the nails. These two areas are the first places where chipping occurs so it is essential to protect them.

9. Allow 2-3 min (the amount of time it takes to paint the rest of your nails) and repeat step 5.

10. Apply my other absolute favorite product (and another one I take to the nail salon), MiraCote Super Fast Dry Through Top Coat. This little gem not only dries my nails in 5 minutes flat but it is like a sealant protecting my nails from any chipping whatsoever. A mani/pedi is incomplete without this nail changing product.

Usage tip: To maintain the longevity of your $50 looking mani/pedi touch up the tips and edges of the nails with polish 2-3 days later and reapply the top coat to restore that glossy shine and reinforce the polish. This minor step will extend your mani/pedi by days!

The result: Spa/salon worthy nails for free! Just look at this picture of my own feet!