Smokey Eyes for Dummies

One of the most beautiful things about life is that each day brings a new opportunity to learn. Afterall, we are lifelong students regardless of how specialized or well versed we may be. My sis, as you have read in previous posts, is a jack of all trades. She effortlessly prepares the perfect flaky pie crust, as she designs vintage jewelery, while she scours for the next Kid Cudi. So it should be no surprise that during my holiday visit home, this talented sis schooled me on how to create the sexy smokey eye in under 3 minutes. This technique is so flawless and foolproof that I must share with you courtesy of Ms. N (a big thank you my sis for your passion, love and everpresent support).

Ms. N's Smokey Eyes for Dummies
1. On a clean, makeup-free eyelid apply a primer to even out skin tone while creating the perfect base for added holding power. I like Paula Dorf Eye Primer.
2. Gently pull eyelid taut using your ring finger with your non-dominant hand. This helps the pencil run smoother over the eyelid in the next step.
3. Starting from the outer corner line the upper lashes with the Nars eye liner pencil in Kyoto for a metallic slate or Kaliste for a popping blue. This line should be thick and doesn't need to be neat as we will be smudging (see picture 1 above)
4. Using a smudge brush, eyeliner sponge (found on the opposite end of some eye or lip pencils) or even your fingers gently smudge the line in a back and forth motion working the color up till the crease (see picture 2). If you want to further darken the lid add more color. Apply the pencil where ever you want greater intensity and smudge (see picture 3).
5. Using the same pencil line only one third of the lower lid starting again from the outer corner (see picture 4).
6. Smudge the line such that the top and lower lines meet at the outer eye corner.
7. "Lock" the color with a translucent powder by gently brushing it on the upper lid.
8. Using a light sparkly champagne eye shadow powder, highlight under the brow bone and inner eye corners for added illumination.
9. Curl lashes (you know my favorite Shu Uemura eye lash curler) and coat lashes with a black mascara.

Et voila timeless, holiday and party appropriate smokey eyes from zero to sixty in under 3 minutes!

On a final note, I want to wish all my readers and their families a very Happy Holiday and a bright, fruitful and healthy New Year. 2009 marked the launch of my beaute blog and without each of your support and readership this really would not be possible. Your comments (yes they get back to me through the grapevine but please also feel free to post them on the site) are my fuel and I'm humbled by your patronage. Here's to a beaute filled 2010!

Usage tip: As Ms. N says "big on the eyes, light on the lips" so finish this look with a pinkish nude lipgloss. The key to this look is to not be afraid of a misstep. The thicker the line the more color your smokey look will have. Just be sure to smudge. Don't worry you can't screw this up!

The result: Flawless smokey eyes as you juggle updating your Facebook status while doing the laundry and heating up the restaurant catered dinner you will later be taking full credit for as your boy comes over for a "home cooked meal!"

Twinkle in Your Eye

Besides assessing fellow passenger's complexion on the subway and making mental notes of what they could do improve their skin, I also like to watch people and see how a circumstance/environment can bring out an unexpected extra something to their look. The girl at the gym has the perfect rosy hued glow after running on the treadmill for 20 minutes. That color, in that exact location gives her a healthy radiance (mental note: match blush to the color cheeks have after working out and remember where to place it). Running late for work as she's trying to finish her breakfast and drop the kids off at daycare, the mother haphazardly throws her hair up in a ponytail with loose pieces lingering to frame the face (mental note: finger hair up into a ponytail making sure to leave some strands behind for a sexier, innocent look).

But my absolute favorite is looking at someone in a darker restaurant or lounge. The candlelight from the candle expertly placed on the table in front of them shines on the eyelid to give this alluring, inner radiance. You know that saying "the twinkle in your eye?" That's exactly what I'm talking about, it draws you in seductively and leaves you hanging on for more. Wow my body temperature went up just saying that! Anyway, wouldn't it be great if we lived in a world that was a bit darker and someone could walk in front of us with a candle so we could always have that allure? Laughable and unimaginable yes, recreatable abso-freakin-lutely!

Step 1: On clean eye lids first apply your eye cream (yes this is important, hydrated skin looks plumper) followed by an eye primer. (Amber how proud of me are you right now? I did a hyperlink! Pathetically sad that I get excited about something so simple!)

Step 2: Apply your all over lid and crease shadow as normal.

Step 3: Before applying eye liner but after using all the eye shadow you desire, take the small shading eye brush and dip the oval tip into the desired Make Up For Ever Star Powder. Remember to chose a lighter, highlighting color. One of my favorites is Pearl Gold which is versatile and complimentary to any eye palette. Be sure to tap the brush to remove any excess powder before applying.

Step 4 (AND THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE): Just above where the eye liner would be, apply the powder along the length of your eye pupil. Meaning, draw in invisible line of where you pupil starts and ends on the upper eye lid. That's the area you want to apply the powder. You can work it a little up towards the crease as well so that when your gaze is straight ahead, the distance from the upper lid to the eye crease is highlighted with the powder. Don't apply it too far up in the eye lid as that will be an over kill and end up transferring the powder into the crease. Think a delicate line. See picture above as well for further clarification.

Step 5: Apply your eye liner (I love using an eyeliner gel with an angled brow brush).

Step 6: Curl lashes and apply mascara.

Step 7: Apply concealer to your lower lid.

Usage tip: For added staying power, dip the small shading brush in water before picking up the Starlight powder. This helps the powder bind to the lid a bit more.

The result: If you don't know go back and reread the first paragraph or look at the finale picture above!

Starlight Starbright

Isn't it funny how some of the best things in life are found in the most innocent and naive ways? Those are the things you grow to treasure and never take for granted. Well beaute must have always been in my genes and blood because at the age of 12 or 13, during a school sponsored field trip to the big nyc (funny fate should have it that years later I would make this remarkable city my home away from home), I stumbled upon a Sephora. What can I say I was in pure heaven. To the point that I returned the next 3 days we were there spending every nano-second I could until my mom had enough and other classmates became a bit resentful that they weren't seeing the Statue of Liberty. Didn't they understand that I had arrived in my mecca?! Well during this fateful trip I discovered one of my most treasured (remember I don't use that word lightly-only if I truly adore and love something) brands, Make Up For Ever, and purchased their Star Powder. That baby and I were inseparable. It was applied everywhere! Interestingly I still have that original jar.

I know I promised another makeup demo post but our next look will be focusing on a captivating inner glow which is mainly accomplished by this amazing product. Star Powder is the perfect mix between shimmer, highlight and just pure brilliance. A little goes a long way with this superfine powder and it's so versatile you can use it as you wish (imagine that!). In the mood for some light reflecting contouring? Meet Star Powder. Need a little radiance to brighten dull skin? Star Powder to the rescue! Want to highlight your perfect nose? Star Powder is your man (just don't umm snort it...it's a joke, laugh!). Anyway you get my drift, right? This silky powder provides the perfecting finishing touch to seal the deal. My favorite shades include Pearl Gold, Copper and Iridescent Neutral Beige. Go to your nearest Sephora, play and discover for yourself!

Usage tip: For extra staying power dampen your brush before application. The pigment can be dense so always tap your brush before applying and remember you can always apply more.

The result: Radiant, glowing star power for your best look!

The Eyes Have It!

Step 5:

I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Back in the good ole days of being a student (when time was not an endangered species), I would tear out my favorite makeup looks from magazines and then try to replicate them at home. A couple of things I found. One: the step by step direction provided were never accurate. There's always a key step they managed to leave out. Two: through this trial and error process your artistic imagination may actually lead you to a better look or a signature technique. So today we are going to build from the last two posts and learn one of my all time favorite eye makeup techniques. As you all know I'm someone who needs a serious amount of sleep to get that rested, healthy look. The reality? That rarely happens! Even if I do manage to get into bed at a reasonable hour and am so exhausted I can barely keep my eyes open, my brain somehow manages to keep me wide awake running through my "to do" list for the next day or over-analyzing problems. Needless to say there are days I wake up a bit tired looking. So I rely on this technique to not only give me that wide-awake look but to also highlight my eyes when I'm going for a little mystery.

Beaute Guru's Secret 6 Step Technique for the "8hrs of sleep + I draw you in with my eyes" look:
1. Apply your base and crease eye makeup as usual.

2. Apply your desired eyeliner, mascara and concealer.
3. Chose an appropriate light-reflecting, shimmery eye shadow. This is really dependent on your skin tone and the contrast you're looking for. I have an olive complexion so I often stick with a shimmery light pink such as MAC's Sweetlust. My fairer beaute lovers can use a whiter shade.
4. Dip the tip/head of the blending brush into the shadow and tap off any excess.

5. Start at the inner corner of the upper eye lid and brush the shimmering powder in a downward motion following the shape of the eye's inner V. Please see picture above.

6. Blend the highlighting shadow above and below lashes. I particular like working the color along the lower lash line about 3/4 in or to where your pupil starts. It helps exaggerate that brightening look.

Usage tip: My mantra is you can always apply more so start light and build up on the shimmer depending on how tired you look or to achieve the desired radiance. Play around with different highlighting colors. For night time a shimmering gold or peach tone may be quite alluring!

The result: Bright, well rested eyes with a devilish look!