Hair Color 101

Since so many of you enjoyed the last post on the new brunette but had questions about the do's and dont's of salon color I thought it would be helpful to go back to the fundamentals, or as I like to call them the 101's, for a brief review. Yes I know none of us really took pleasure in being coerced to attend the mandated prerequisites of American history 101 or Physics 101 but in fairness to our higher learning institutions these classes provided us with the building blocks by which to progress our studies...well in theory at least. But unlike middle school, high school or college Beaute 101 provides valuable insight into looking and feeling your best cause after all looks due matter and whoever told you otherwise was either ugly, jealous of your natural beauty or flat out delusion (I'd like to be PC and say I'm just kidding but unfortunately I'm really not!). So the question of the day: what can you do to make your professional hair color appointment and service the best possible?

Before the Color Service

1. Scan through magazines and cut out examples of hair colors (and cuts!) that you like. Hair stylists are artists and they appreciate visual stimulus or inspiration by which they can work off of. By having physical examples of what you're looking for your stylist will have a better understanding of how to give it to you. Now you can take multiple pictures (my preference as you want to create your own look; not to replicate the model in the ad) but be clear in describing what you like. For example, I want that rich auburn hue from this clip as a highlight but I like the subtle weaving techniques of this ad. You get the picture?

2. Don't wash your hair up to 24 hours prior to your hair color appointment. Hair's natural oils help minimize the damaged incurred to hair while not interfering with color binding to strands. By shampooing you are stripping hair of these protective oils.

During the Color Service

1. Ask your stylist to give you a protein/strengthening treatment directly after rinsing the color. This little extra helps restore hair's natural building blocks to fortify strands from the inside out. Breakage is minimized for stronger, healthier hair.

2. If for any reason you are unhappy with your color or cut tell your stylist immediately. They and the salon manager would prefer correcting the mistake right away so that you leave their salon a happy customer.

After the Color Service

1. Wait at least 24 hours or ideally 48 hours before washing hair. This helps ensure that the color molecules bind properly for maxim richness and intensity. When you do wash your hair don't be alarmed if you notice "bleeding" (meaning color rinsing out while in the shower). This is just the excess color that was on your scalp and outer hair layer. Just be sure to dry hair with an old towel that you wouldn't mind being stained with the color.

2. Wash hair with a color protecting shampoo to help boast radiance and maintain color longevity for at least 2 weeks. I like Phyto Citrus Shampoo or Kerastase Bain Mirror. For best color wear also make sure that the shampoo you use at all times is safe or made for color-treated hair. Just rinsing or brushing hair will naturally make color fade but by using a gentle color protecting shampoo you can lengthen and prolong your color.

3. After shampooing, treat hair to a nourishing mask which will restore lost lipids, proteins and nutrients. It's all about strengthening your hair for optimal suppleness, shine and healthiness. Make sure to apply the mask from mid-length to ends (where damage is the most) as it will only weigh down the roots and leave-in for 10-15 minutes. Wrap a towel around your hair (put on a shower cap first) so that the heat from your head helps the mask penetrate the hair. Rinse with cool water to help the seal the cuticles (hair's outer layer). Do this treatment weekly.

4. Use a leave-in product with UV filters and an antioxidant like vitamin E or any of the berries (you know the list blue, acai, goji, etc). These ingredients will help protect color from free radical damage (yes this too happens to hair) which causes color dulling and oxidizing. Ideally it's smart to make this a part of your hair care regimen.

Usage tip: You can get the best color but if you don't take care of your hair the color molecules will eventually be stripped so pay close attention to the after color service portion above and for the best results follow it to the T.

The results: Brilliant, long lasting color just the way you want it and worth every penny you paid for it!

The New Brunette

First off I want to begin by apologizing for going MIA last week. Yes it was the big turkey day and we were all busy cooking up a storm (the two chefs in my family made their best feast to date!). But on top of that I managed to catch that not so friendly cold that's going around which may have contributed to my fainting episode on my United Airlines (not fun!) return flight home (a big thank you to the two nurses and stewardesses who helped me). Anyway, I hope that you and your loved ones had a wonderful Thanksgiving. I'm particularly thankful for all my beaute101 readers!

In life if you're really lucky there are passing opportunities to experience greatness...great "I will always make you feel fabulous" shoes, great "down to wire, 30 seconds left, touchdown clenching" football games and of course there's the great loves (an elusive concept that we all dream of). In my case I have Gina the Great. Gina is without question one of the most accomplished hair stylists I've had the privilege of meeting. Uniquely talented in both cuts and colors (most stylists specialize in one or the other), I have been flying close to 2,000 miles for the past 5 years to snag an appointment with her (I've been a Gina convert for over 10 years now!). Any stylist who compels a client to fly from Nyc (no less!) for a hair appointment is nothing short of brilliantly ingenious. So on my holiday trip home, I booked my "autumn/winter" hair appointment with Gina to swap my summer, sun-kissed locks for some statement making winter colors. Now what you must know is that I am proud brunette but throughout all my hair coloring years I have experienced a pang of envy for my blonder counterparts. They always seemed to have a richer, broader palette of tones- think swirled honey, dulce de leche and butterscotch, while brunettes could only explore hair colors within the limiting confines of warm dark brown shades like caramel, mocha and mahogany.

Not to be outdone anymore, hair color manufacturers have finally addressed this need gap and are launching colors for a more fabulous hued brunette. Gina the Great and I decided to play with some of these new tones that will soon become a mainstay for all darker haired ladies. The newest trend is a large departure from the food inspired colors mentioned above and veer toward a cooler (in more ways than one!) more organically natural shades. Instead the old warm tones (think the orange-red undertones) have been replaced by chicer, more-bitter chocolate type of palettes. So Gina masterminded a 10 shade, double-processed (read: my hair was first lightened to help the hair quench the desired color molecules, then washed, dried and then recolored) highlight, lowlight, base colors that are truly heart stopping. Set on a background of bad girl black with a blue undertone, each highlight color is inspired by nature and landscape recalling things like fresh soil, aubergine eggplant and bark (I know it doesn't sound sexy but trust me it looks damn hot). 7 hours later (yes you read that right!), I emerged from Gina the Great's chair with a edgy, sexy look only complimented by my rocker, layered cut. I find myself staring at my hair in different lights, captivated by the range and glints of these new sophisticated, cooler tones. I don't know if I will ever be able to go back those caramel-hued highlights! As the recent British Vogue said, "Brunette hair has the ability to look, if not more expensive, then certainly more luxurious than even the most sunkissed of blonde hair" and all I can say is "Yes we can!"

Usage tip: These new cool tones are more flattering to the paler, vampire-inspired winter skin tones. Flaunt your new color with dark black voluminous lashes, bold eyebrows, a hint of pink blush and the new merlot/vamp lips. And if you're in the Denver area or are willing to catch a plane stop by Blondies and pay Gina the Great a visit!

The result: Rock star edgy, uptown chic, lingerie sexy hair! Move over blondes it's time to let someone else have some fun!